Where does the curiosity or motivation come from to submit a weekly back roads story?
This segment follows part one of the end of 2024 review of favourite stories.
The opportunity allows for a personal explanation as to why I tackle a unique story that highlights a sense of place within a northern Ontario setting. Read on.
Lost and found
This story on July 27 was kind of a murder mystery with a good deal of conjecture. Were they murdered?
There was research to do for this early labour-conflict story. First it was to find out about the victims.
There was a need to know about these two labour organizers.
“In the Riverside Cemetery in Thunder Bay is a black and grey granite headstone.
“The graves you are looking for are side by side in Section 15 lots 741 & 742, eleventh row from the main road and 14 graves from the bottom of the section,” Jennifer Topp, the office manager said. There are two Finnish names on it, and there are some clues as to who the people buried there are. The date of death is Nov 18, 1929. I leave a visiting rock. It is a Jewish custom. There’s more to appreciate.
“Then to the back roads north of the city, there’s a dead slow trip, along a speckled alder shrouded, greatly deteriorating logging road. There are questionable stops to have a look at. Can we make it? Upon arrival at Onion Lake, a widening of the south-flowing Current River, the accident-crime site has been altered by humankind and Nature, but it remains timeless.”
As always there is a summation with some contemplation for the reader. And the ever-present map link.
“Here is the map to retrace the doubtful puzzle pieces of what happened to Rosvall and Voutilainen.
“These government-sponsored heritage plaques tell poignant stories some remain more relevant, and even more so for the future. We are grateful to the labour movement for many reasons, sometimes there were sacrifices; this is why we have weekends and holidays, and more time to explore the back roads. Thank you.”
Railway nickels
On August 24 there was a look back at a railway accident, an unusual one that featured the five-cent coins scattered along the tracks for more than one hundred kilometres.
The photo taken with the commemorative nickel on the track was a favourite composition and helped to explain what happened on Friday, February 22., 1974.
You can’t imagine better northern Ontario heritage. Here was the context back then.
“If you need a few nickels and are willing to brave sub-zero temperatures and dig through 14-foot snow drifts, you might find some along an 80-mile stretch of railway in Northern Ontario.
“Canadian National Railways confirmed Friday that one of its trains dribbled thousands of dollars of the coins along the stretch of track Tuesday.
“The shipment of more than 500,000 shiny 1974 nickels, worth about $27,000, was being shipped from the Canadian Mint in Ottawa to Winnipeg in a rickety old wooden boxcar. The bottom of the boxcar apparently broke at Nakina, Ont., north of Lake Superior.”
The story’s summary is a quirky one but reflects upon why these stories are written. “When you Google “Nakina Nickel,” nothing of value seems to appear. It cost me about ten bucks to purchase my 1974 nickel for the photo shoot. Many of the keepsake 'Nakina Nickels' as they are known have nicks from being tossed around underneath the rail cars.
“But the worthiness of the story holds greater value on the back roads.”
Environmental catastrophe legacy
The September 14 story highlighted an ongoing environmental legacy that will impact the landscape in the coming years.
I described the setting. “A recent back road trip led me to discover the current progress of the provincial government in trying to mitigate an inherited contaminated area. If ignored, it would become a long-term catastrophe.
“It’s called a lake, Steep Rock Lake, but it isn’t, really.
“It now looks a little like the setting of a Waubgeshig Rice dystopian novel or Last of Us, the raging HBO hit.
“There are cautionary and explanatory signs and fenced-off areas everywhere. Over time the former asphalt access roads are now well pitted and cracked with emerging plants. The same with the railway over/underpasses. The original galvanized guard rails are coated with a tinge of red iron ore dust.”
It is the filling in of water within a mammoth, abandoned iron ore pit near Atikokan. In time it will have a huge impact on the landscape.
The summary of the story reminds us.
“A similar situation of magnitude occurs in Timmins with the Kam Kotia cleanup of an ugly swamp of acid-infused water locked between Highway 576 and the former copper mine’s remains on a ridge of rock.
“There will be millions and millions dollars more spent to re-engineer what was. This non-fiction story encompasses the auspicious past of a needed mine, that morphed into a massive, present environmental challenge, this fix has to lead to a better future on the back roads.”
This is what one of the train’s patrons thought on the Back Roads Bill podcast, The Magic of Riding the Budd Car.
Why Matachewan?
This story was easily selected to the shortlist because of the people we (with buddy Brian Emblin) met – who made the story come alive on August 3.
It was a trip to the gold mining community of Matachewan, west of Kirkland Lake. The “Ken” (McCollam) below epitomizes the affection one has for their community.
“…With Ken in tow, the back roads day starts there with a short drive to Matachewan First Nation to reach our alternative boat launch location. It will save time and portage.
“Chief Alex 'Sonny' Batisse (a well-known family name) sends along a welcoming bag of swag, along with Matachewan First Nation members J.P. Boucher and Ritchie Millen. They knew Back Roads Bill was visiting, I feel a little like a back roads’ celebrity but it is what transpires that creates special feelings of belonging.
“We find out that John Paul is a left-handed guitar player and Ritchie, a former 'shaft sinking miner for mining contractor Cemetation Canada' is indeed a character. His humour is infectious, and he weaves his land-based knowledge into our incessant dialogue…”
When you read the story you will appreciate the whirlwind nature of that day and the multiple stories within.
So much oral heritage out there on the back roads – the people know, sometimes way better than the books.
Go for a visit.
Listen to Ken’s passion on the podcast.
Train ride
This is a train ride you will want to take.
The descriptive story was featured September 28 and the lede to the story sets the scene.
“Let someone else do the driving, sit back and discover how much water there really is in northern Ontario.
“The people encountered during the Budd Car trip mean there's much to share in this instalment.
“You can’t escape it, there is that distinctive rhythmic clacking of the wheels on the tracks. This creates a soothing backdrop as the landscape blurs past the windows. There is a gentle sway like when you were once in a parent’s arms.
“There are only three stainless steel rail cars, symmetrical in their appearance.
“ The constant gentle rocking motion lulls passengers into a meditative state as they watch the Canadian Shield roll by. The low rumble of the electric diesel engine is a constant companion, its power has a distinctive hum.
“Lost in thought with the natural scenery, the slow pace of the journey allows the mind to wander for eight hours and a bit. The next day, the weather changes the scenery, and the experience repeats with a different spatial perspective.”
The train provides the 301 (484 km) mile service, to many remote locations only accessible by rail on the Canadian Pacific Railway mainline in Northern Ontario. It is the VIA run from Sudbury to White River, and return, and a winter 2025 ride is in the making.
Listen to one patron’s thoughts on the trip through the podcast.
Sasquatch sculpture
This story on October 12, was a dream come true with the arrival of Sasquatch Sam at the Canadian Ecology Centre (CEC) -Samuel de Champlain Provincial Park (Park).
The creation of a Sasquatch sculpture for the CEC and the Park had been on one’s mind for a few years.
There was glee in the lead paragraphs to the story.
“This week we follow the remarkable journey of a bigfoot sculpture over the back roads to its eventual home. Slowly transported on some back roads, the 1,500 lb., eight-foot plus, vertical sculpture travelled fully exposed for more than six hours, 450 km, on a flatbed trailer. It was a memorable journey like no other. Way better than virtual reality.
“The number of thumbs ups, waves, honks, roll-down-the-window witty sayings in real life were better than watching social media. Travelling in the moment with a legendary creature was a once-in-a-lifetime trip on the back roads.”
The artist-sculptor, Gerald Guenkel kept a detailed diary describing the chronological events of creating such a masterpiece.
From the story and Gerald:
“Finally accept the idea that Back Roads Bill is not joking around in having an 8ft Sasquatch carved for the CEC (Canadian Ecology Centre) in the Park.
“Send first draft April 3, a friendly sasquatch – no interest, back to the drawing board. Send second draft April 21, a serious, all business sasquatch, accepted.”
Listen to the Back Roads Bill podcast, the artist is interviewed.
Wise owls
This October 19 story was a “hoot” to compose.
I am a meat-and-potatoes type of writer it was some of the best descriptive prose I could muster.
“Late on one of those recent nights when the aurora borealis was active, I walked off the back roads and into the night with Borealis Bruce.
“The night was like those not-so-real cell photo-filtered images or virtual photos we see on social media. These were the eyeful milk-white bands of aurora borealis with hints of natural traces of reds and greens shimmering and dancing in waves above your wonderment. Through the silky curtain of white translucence, the constellations still could be seen. It was a relatively new moon phase.
“That’s what greeted us at the end of a cautionary signed, rutted, unmaintained, back road in Hilliardton Township northeast about 20 minutes or 25 km NNE of Temiskaming Shores.
“It was a tranquil night.
Stepping out of the vehicle, we were greeted with the constant replay of a haunting, hooting-like Northern Saw-whet Owl recording lure, echoing through the spacious boreal forest of mixed vegetation.
Headlamps on and not too far down the former skid trail a path veered north into the thick presence of Labrador tea and Leatherleaf shrubbery. You can hear the bristle-like contact noise against your synthetic attire.
It’s cool enough to see your breath.
The focused light catches the changing colours of the tamarack, the ground is moist here and you can hear the squish in each step. At full amplitude, we pass by the miniature recording device.
Soon crossing some well-worn corduroy trail logs Bruce stops us. “We’re at the nets.”
It was a night of banding owls at the Hilliardton Marsh Research & Education Centre. The story’s photos, including the northern lights, were unique.
And the last paragraph nicely summed up what was felt through this natural experience.
“Mother Nature is always speaking to us about protecting our habitat. And contrary to the meaning of “I couldn’t give two hoots” Bruce and others have been taught by the teacher, herself, with wise words from the night on the back roads.
Listen to the bird banding podcast.
The perfect sweat
It was close to the end of the year and the release of the 2024 traditional Back Roads Bill-Santa Claus greetings card through the sauna story on December 14.
I was able to find the guru of saunas who has appeared on the David Letterman show.
“Once again it was a challenge to find “the” sauna expert but then presto!
“Mikkel Aaland authored the book Perfect Sweat, which really started the more contemporary journey of exploring of saunas, transcending the warmth of the experience to delve deeper into the unique places and individuals that define the sweat-bathing culture. He was located in San Francisco.
Have a listen to the Back Roads Bill podcast with Mikkel – In Search of the Perfect Sweat.
There was much feedback to this story with readers telling of their back roads’ saunas and what these abodes mean to their lifestyle.
And a reminder at the end of the story… "Remember it is the Finnish pronunciation 'sow-nah,' not (saw-na) on the back roads.”
One other
An honourable mention for the year that was is the retracing of the Temiskaming Canoe Tragedy which was published on August 17. The tragedy on Lac Témiscamingue, June 11, 1978, has had a huge impact on my working life as an outdoor educator. This year through a Canadian Scholars textbook I will have a chapter on the content of what comprises a school trip preparedness plan.
The St. John’s Anglican school – back in the day – did not have a plan, and the outdoor education reminder rings true: “If you fail to plan, you will plan to fail.”
On this summer’s trip, I left 13 Lake Superior round rocks at the commemorative monument near the tragedy’s location.
Next
All to say this is my avocation and it is fun to share these northern Ontario back roads stories with you.
Looking forward to next week the first new story of 2025.
