Sometimes there is wonderment on the back roads. What’s the lure?
Many of this author’s stories refer to ‘Vitamin N’ – Nature, and sense of place throughout northern Ontario. There’s always feelings and emotions of being there.
“Been” pondering this for quite some time, so it was decided to query others what the back roads and the back waters mean to them and to divulge their favourite places.
There are a dozen opinions, a diversified group by vocation and avocation.
Adam Shoalts, solo adventurer, modern Canadian explorer
He has become Canada’s most prolific explorer, known as our “Indiana Jones – Adam Shoalts.” known for his solo adventures in print and video.
“To answer your question, I would say backroads, to me, conjure up feelings of mystery and adventure. Travelling a back road feels a bit like travelling back in time. Of course, as you know better than anyone, many of Ontario's backroads harken back to rich, and often overlooked history. Going out to these places is ultimately the only way to really get a feel for that history: there is, after all, only so much that can be learned from books and the written word.”
His first book (and my favourite) and solo adventure, Alone Against the North is set in the area north of the Detour Mine (Cochrane) towards James Bay. He ventured this vast unexplored wilderness, part of the James Bay Lowlands. His goal was to set foot where no one had ever gone before (Again River), an original humankind footprint.
It is cool to meet your hero.
Hap Wilson, artist and environmentalist
If you know the Temagami wilderness you most likely have encountered Hap Wilson through his books, sketches and photographs.
Hap co-founded the environment group, Earthroots, a grassroots conservation organization dedicated to the protection of Ontario’s wilderness, wildlife and watersheds, in 1986. His book, Voyages: Canada’s Heritage Rivers, won the Natural Resources Council of America Award for best environmental book of 1994. Hap also received the Bill Mason Award for lifetime achievement in river conservation.
“Obviously, I’m partial to Lady Evelyn Smoothwater Wilderness Park, where our ecolodge - Cabin Falls Ecolodge - is located in Temagami.”
He said, “The greater Temagami backcountry deserves UNESCO status because of its special features: the world’s oldest, still intact aboriginal trail system known as the nastawgan; highest points of land in Ontario, and the last stands of ancient red and white pine forests in North America.”
My (Bill) place of solace is Florence Lake in the heart of this wilderness gem, a true roadless area.
Joanie and Gary McGuffin, writers, photographers and environmentalists
For a long time, Joanie and Gary McGuffin have given us gifts in the form of books and photos. It has been their life for more than 30 years.
They are truly Canadian conservationists, writers, and explorers known for their canoeing and kayaking books, particularly on Lake Superior. They've received awards for their environmental education and wilderness preservation work.
Joanie said, “The back roads to us are places beyond and before roads where the original highway of water carry us everywhere. When travel happens on rivers and lakes, along shorelines and coastlines in canoes, the unexpected happens around every bend and beyond every horizon. That is what we love about northern Ontario where reading the weather means feeling the wind direction, observing sky colours and cloud shapes.”
Their choice: There is one special place on the eastern shore of Lake Superior that we have returned to for as long as we have been journeying together. The archipelago of the Gargantua Islands, known since time immemorial as Nanaboozhung, is a place of volcanic rock, pebble beaches, steep cliffs, and sand coves. While camping here where the infinite starry sky meets a vast freshwater sea, we time travel imagining Indigenous Peoples lives sustained for millennia by the roaming caribou and rich fishing grounds.”
One of my favourite nearshore islands is Barrett Island not too far from the Agawa Pictographs and what Joanie and Gary describe. It is because of the colourful rock intrusions, highlighted by the Caribbean-like water colours of Lake Superior.
Ian Tamblyn, folk singer, songwriter and playwright
Ian Tamblyn is one of Canada’s best-known folk singers, songwriters and playwrights. Born in Fort William (Thunder Bay) he is a Juno Award winner.
Tamblyn has recorded more than 25 instrumental music albums inspired by his adventure travels to remote places such as the north shore of Lake Superior, the Nahanni River and the Chukchi Sea, and his participation in scientific research expeditions to locations such as Greenland and Antarctica. In December 2021, Tamblyn was appointed an Officer of the Order of Canada.
“Needless to say I write a lot of songs about roads – Highway of Broken Dreams, The Denbigh Road, Northern Journey, Road to Nowhere, Voice in the Wilderness, The Known Road, Raven and Ray Charles. All roads are different, what takes you down them, the roadside drama, the isolation, and the yawing distance this country provides. The variables are as endless as the landscape and vistas across Canada. So many stories.”
His favourite places include the Benjamin islands of the West Arm of Killarney Provincial Park and the view of the Ottawa River from the Valois Restaurant in Mattawa.
He will be at the Canadian Ecology Centre Saturday, Jan. 25 for the Stars and Songs concert. My favourite Lake Superior song of lan’s is ‘Woodsmoke and Oranges’ (“…There's something 'bout this country that's a part of me and you..”)
Markus Schwabe and Erik White, CBC fellows
My persona as Back Roads Bill has taken me on a journey, for about a dozen years, with CBC Morning North host Markus Schwabe and producer Erik White. They are a dynamic duo who have crisscrossed northern Ontario in search of community stories.
Said Markus, “When I first hear the word backroads, I think of you.
“I image old logging roads, like the one I once took to visit Temagami First Nation guide Alex Mathias at Obabika Lake. The vehicle bottomed out many times on the huge rocks on the road. But at the end, the stunning old-growth pines around the lake. Alex took me on a short boat ride, then a paddle to the Spirit Rock. It was a memorable day. An illustration of the beauty and meaningful experiences you can find when you follow those backroads of northern Ontario."
Erik White said, “Being a reporter in northern Ontario has taken me down many bush roads, logging roads and backroads, as well as spending hours on 144, 17 and 11 on my way to a story.
“But the 'backroad' I immediately think of is the Wetum winter road running up to Moose Factory. Just driving it is a bit of an adventure-- up and down river banks, zig-zaging through trees-- but I love the feeling of crossing the Muskeg swamp, forgetting you are in Ontario and feeling like you are crossing a desert without birds and trees, but a landscape that has its own rugged beauty that you can only really experience by driving it."
As part of my Back Roads Bill avocation, one of my favourite CBC contributions was on Sasquatch about a decade ago .
Meichin Waxer, artist
Meichen Waxer was featured a couple of weeks back in the column about a Jewish art installation that framed an early immigration story.
She identified the Northern Chevra Kadisha Cemetry, a small Jewish cemetery located just north of Englehart and south of Kirkland Lake holds a special place in her heart.
“The cemetery itself was established in 1905 with the death of my great-great-grandfather, his drowning along with his son and cousins who were the first in the small northern Jewish community of Krugerdorf. My Bubbie, though passed when I was young, remains a constant fountain of inspiration, strength, and, love - from her I learned of the story of my great-great-grandmother who arrived up in the community a window.
“The first time I made the journey to Northern Chevra Kadisha Cemetry, there was a dragonfly on my great-great-grandmother's headstone. It stayed on the headstone my entire visit and when I came close, I felt like I was looking into the eyes and heart of my Bubbie, and hers. I do believe that they met me on the backroads up north.”
The Hebrew Cemetery is just north of Englehart, east on the Aide Creek Garden Rd; leave a small rock when you visit.
Laurie Marcil, tourism guru
Laurie Marcil is one of the longest-serving tourism professionals in Ontario.
She heads up NOTO – Nature & Outdoor Tourism Ontario. Founded in 1929, the non-profit organization “is dedicated to proactive planning, development, and promotion of a strong nature & outdoor tourism industry in Ontario,” says its website. This 90-year-old organization supports the resource-based tourism industry through advocacy, information services and business support.
“One of my favourite backroads trips took me from Sudbury to Swanson on the VIA Rail train to Lodge 88 on Esnagi Lake. The train ride was a blend of modern-day convenience with a peek into the past as we watched canoeists and campers load and offload their gear and canoes at a multitude of remote stops along the way. Chatting with folks and hearing about their adventures was so refreshing. It was comforting to know that there is still pristine wilderness that is being appreciated and experienced the way it has been for hundreds of years.
“When we arrived at Lodge 88 our adventure and immersion into the magical wilderness of Northern Ontario began. I would go back in a heartbeat,” she said.
See the Budd Car train story, it is true.
Al Cressell, radio veteran
The great northwest of Ontario often creates stories. This year was no exception one being a look at an environmental catastrophe in Atikokan.
En route, I always tune into Al Cressell the legendary early morning voice of The big lake the morning host of CFNO radio out of Marathon. His show covers most of central-north Ontario and encompasses everything between Highways 11 and 17. He does it all when producing the show and works from after midnight through to about noon, it is his routine, day in and day out.
“I have travelled many a back road in my 20 years at CFNO radio…but the one that I love the most is the Caramat Industrial Road between Manitouwadge and the village of Caramat.
“It is still used as a hauling road for lumber but not as extensive as it was due to the slow decline of the forestry industry.
“However, nevertheless, the Caramat Road offers a scenic road through the heart of rugged Northern Ontario wilderness. Often wildlife will be your travelling companion a moose, lynx or even rabbits.”
“Due to the gravel surface and many curves, a slower pace is often recommended but it is an awesome and beautiful stretch of road.”
This is the road that takes you to High Falls, a new waterfall found in 2024.
Blaine Vernon, Back Roads Bill column reader
Village Media readers from throughout the province send comments and this Nov. 24 email is from Blaine Vernon after the story on forest bathing.
“I have felt compelled to send you this email, as I have always looked forward to reading your articles in the Timmins news.
“My wife and myself have always been close to nature, and are avid hikers and back-country skiers. We use the forests as you say to feel a connection with every little thing. We have a better understanding of what nature offers us and that alone makes every day special.
“We love exploring, and find that no matter what the weather we get outdoors at every opportunity we can.
“We tend to be official guides to a lot of people from different backgrounds and enjoy taking them to places that they never would have dreamed of.
“For those people who have never experienced the "call of the bush as" we like to say, that in itself makes us feel even better to share the hiking, snowshoeing, skiing and berry picking.
“Most of those people we take with us have never been in the bush, never picked berries, or never sat down at an open fire to roast a wiener in the dead of winter.
“Some of those same professional people are from other countries, and after going on these excursions into the wilds of Northern Ontario, the feedback makes it all worthwhile.
“The positive feelings are like magic to us and to those who always want more opportunities to do it again.
“I would just like to say you keep up the great work and we look forward to more of your stories and photos.
“Good luck with your recovery Bill and take care.”
Always grateful to hear from the readers and what they feel.
Roy MacGregor, award-winning Canadian author
Over the years there have been a couple of stories with Roy MacGregor, one of Canada’s most prolific authors. He shared a back road secret in Algonquin Provincial Park.
Roy is the winner of multiple awards for his writing, including the prestigious Rutstrum Award, which is given out every five years to the best book on wilderness writing in North America. MacGregor won in 2001 for his memoir on his father, A Life in the Bush. In 2005, Roy MacGregor was named an Officer in the Order of Canada. In 2012, he was awarded The Queen Elizabeth II Diamond Jubilee Medal (Ontario).
“I always meant to keep this secret. But I found myself more and more ending up back here as I talked to fellow adventurers about the greatest backroads treasures.
“Ellen and I came upon it by accident. We wanted to canoe the Baron Canyon on the eastern boundary of Algonquin Park. Tom Thomson had painted it, and it looked majestic.
“We were paddling across Stratten Lake when I noticed a site called High Falls that was virtually on our way, so we decided to take a look and perhaps take a few photographs. What we found was the most remarkable natural waterpark ever. It was as if nature had created a series of large granite bowels, each emptying into the other.
“Impossible, I know," he said. “But you have to be there to know what I mean. Kids were there, wearing their life preservers like diapers, and they were sliding from one bowel to the other.
“A few years later, we brought our new son-in-law from France and our daughter and we had it all to ourselves for a morning. He was fascinated and thrilled. If this were America, it would have paid parking, shuttles to the falls, an admission fee and signs saying '45 minutes to ride.'"
A new location to find and the northern Kiosk entry to the Park is my favourite. My favourite MacGregor book is Northern Light: The Enduring Mystery of Tom Thomson and the Woman Who Loved Him.
Brian (and sometimes Liz) Emblin, Back Roads Bill buddy and his wife
Not sure why he always comes along so I asked Brian Emblin (and his wife, Liz, from time to time) from Timmins who has shared many Back Roads Bill adventures with me, and I am always grateful.
“Well….it all started when I was a kid, we used to go out on grand family adventures, my parents and my three siblings. There would be a lunch and we would go out for many different reasons, blueberry picking, checking out an interesting waterfall or the location of an old sawmill. I guess it was a way of my parents getting us some fresh air and keeping us occupied when we were kids up in Hearst.
“Now for me with my own kids moved on it gets some of the reasons to hit the back roads are the same but now we need to talk about getting away from screens and our electronically connected world and get connected to the natural world."
His absolute favourite adventure?
“So far has been the trip to the most northern point of Ontario. That was not exactly a backroad trip for the average adventure seeker with a canoe and pick up but still one that I will remember for a long time I’m sure.”
Take a look at the polar bear photos and check back regularly. We may be headed back that way this winter and bringing you another column about it.
Carol Martin, 'long-suffering' editor
The “long-suffering” editor of my stories deserved the chance to get her two cents in, even though we don’t have pennies anymore. Carol Martin, an avid kayaker, has read hundreds of back roads stories and makes them better for you.
She aptly explained her feelings about kayaking.
“Being out on the water heals my soul. After all the things I see and hear as a journalist, it's so deeply invigorating and renewing to be in the quiet on the water. As I gently rock with deep strokes of my paddle my eyes drink in the peace of my surroundings. I immerse myself in nature's scents, sounds and sights leaving screens, stress and demands of my job to sink in the water and wash away behind me. I love to feel my muscles rise to the challenge and ground myself in my body as I push myself to see what's around just one more point. Just a little further. Peace and joy are around every bend in the channel."
Her absolute favourite kayaking location is around the little islands off Campment d'Our Island.
“It's accessible from the picnic spot by the Bernt Gilbertson Bridge that connects St. Joeseph Island and the mainland and from the Kensington Point Marina south of Desbarats. My favourite place to access the adventure of kayaking around Sapper, Picture and Copper Island is off the end of Camp Dours Road, via St. Joseph's Island and just across from the Kensington Point Marina. There are so many lovely cabins, gorgeous scenes, birds and animals to see, especially around Whiskey Rock and the Weller Islands -- from Hole in the Wall to Wilson Channel Range Front Lighthouse.”
Last word to Back Roads Bill
“Oh ya…I guess it is my turn.”
Going to the back roads has always been a journey, (if you go with me there is a bond of shared affection). It sometimes takes me to new places, near and afar, where there is, the older phrase of “peace and quiet.” It is a destination where we behold what Nature provides at any time of the day or season.
During COVID the epic trip to as far as you can drive (North Caribou Lake, way north of Pickle Lake) a vehicle in Ontario was an accomplishment.
But closer it is that first third of the logging/industrial road north of Terrace Bay towards Longlac; about 60 km north to Three Mile Narrows. It is best described as driving along the coast of Lake Superior on Hwy. 17 but inland.
The backwater choice is the Slate Islands on Lake Superior off of Terrace Bay.
“My home address is the back roads, you stay awhile and wish it was forever, naturally.” (Brillos)
